28 Jun 2016: Penultimate stage 17 completed

A short 46-mile stage to Armadale on the north coast of Scotland, bringing the total up to 994 miles. It was good to see the sea and know that I’ve managed to cycle from the southern coast to the northern coast of mainland Britain

Today’s leg was on the A836 to Altnaharra (where I had coffee at the Altnaharra Hotel to escape a torrential downpour), then the B671 along the shore of Loch Naver and Strathnaver, before picking up the A836 again through Bettyhill. Despite being marked as major roads, they were single track roads with passing places, and nearly deserted most of the way. Really beautiful, even in the rain.

Sutherland is beautiful, but there’s a grim history of the Clearances in the early 19th century, when many settlements were eradicated to free land for sheep farming…

I had afternoon tea, and a very warm welcome, in the Bettyhill Cafe, where two really kind people made donations. We’re staying in a wonderful B&B in Armadale House (“Scotland Far North Coast B&B” on booking.com), which overlooks a pristine sandy beach on Armadale Bay.